INCI: Ascorbyl palmitate
Multiple positive effects of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) make it an increasingly popular additive to creams and skin care agents. It influences proper distribution of pigment in your skin, takes part in collagen synthesis which makes skin elastic and smooth. It is also important to notice that during increased consumption of products containing vitamin C, the amount of vitamin C accumulated in the skin is limited. Therefore, the main way of supplementing lack of vitamin C in your skin is local application.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is soluble in water and diluted alcohols such as ethyl alcohol and methyl alcohol. It is insoluble in fats and hydrophobic diluters. A very stable variation is ascorbyl palmitate which is soluble in fats. It is a organic compound whose structural formula is C22H38O7. Ester derivative of ascorbic acid with increased lipophilicity and stability. This antioxidant slows down skin ageing process caused by for example UV radiation or cigarette smoke. It a very effective substance because it is almost completely regenerated. It shows effects mainly on skin surface. By indirectly stimulating cellular division, it also has mild exfoliation effects. It balances skin colour and brightens maculae and discolourations. After penetrating the epidermis it stimulates collagen synthesis and inhibits destruction of collagen fibres, hence slowing down ageing processes. It provides protection against UVA and UVB radiation. It also accelerates healing of burns and has positive effect on sunburnt skin due to its strong properties of reducing free radicals which protect keranocytes against harmful UVA radiation. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.
Vitamin C is used in cosmetics designed for mature complexions, to reduce discolourations and in cosmetics for beach lovers.
It may be also added to cosmetics for night time.
Basic indications for the use of vitamin C:
wrinkles – a regular use can lead to almost complete removal of small wrinkles,
vascular changes – decreased erythema,
discolourations created as a result of excessive exposure to sun,
supplement to treatment with retinoic acid or AHA,
skin conditioning before and after laser dermabrasion, all kinds of chemical scrubs (the acceleration of regenerative processes, consolidation of procedures’ effects),
takes part in metabolic processes as a substance carrying electrons,
cooperates in biosynthesis of collagen, accelerates the process of healing injuries and forming bone union,
takes part in the regeneration of vitamin E,
as a strong reductor, it acts against the process of oxidation caused by free radicals,
increases organism’s immunity
shows bacteriostatic and, in relation to some pathogenic microbes, even antibacterial properties.
A proposition of melting:
Prepare resources to melt vitamin C: ethyl alcohol (preferably 96% spirit) and oil, for example caprilic or squalane – heat everything in a heated bath
Pour vitamin C to the beaker, add alcohol (1:1 ratio) and put everything into the heated bath. Mix intensively until the vitamin melts and subsequently add prepared oil without removing the beaker out of the heated bath – mix intensively. When ingredients blend, the consistency is quite thick and perfect for our cream bases
Recommended concentrations in [g]:
1 g of vitamin (4.2 ml) 1 g of ethyl alcohol (1.2 ml) 5 g of vitamin (5.5 ml)
Anti aging and brightening face creams, serums and emulsions
||Up to 10%|
|Storage||Tightly sealed at room temperature. Protect from moisture and light.|
|Solubility||Soluble in fats and ethanol|
|Expiring date||Given on the label|